Ball Pythons Breeding

This is just a basic breeding formula for Large Adult Female and Male Ball Pythons. Females that are at least three years of age generally make better breeders. Once you go through the breeding process you can change, add or delete what works for you and what does not. First off, you want to make sure your Adult female Ball Pythons have good weight. Preferably between 1800 and 2000 grams. Make sure they are in excellent health (no respiratory problems) the cooling and breeding process can be taxing for a healthy snake much less an ill snake.

October 1St:

Shut off all heating and lights in the snake room at night. Allow the temperature to drop to room temperature (70-75F) which should last 12 to 14 Hrs. During daytime heat and lights should be turn back on to normal, temperature approximately 85-88F. You can put all of your heating elements on timers for convenience. No food given during this period.

Note: The beginning of your breeding season can begin either earlier or later. Some breeders start in October and some as late as January. One way to dictate the terms is to create an artificial environment using an air-conditioning unit.

November 1st:

Introduce the male to the female's cage once a week for two days giving him 1-2 days rest between copulations. He is then removed and put back in his cage. Continue process until February 15. I use a 3:1 female to male ratio; some use 5:1.

February 16th:

Temperature back to normal (85-88F) and food can be offered. Offer smaller food items than usual every 12-14 days. Gravid females will keep eggs for 50-120 days. Ovulation visually lasts 24 hours. About 30 days after ovulation, she enters a shed cycle (12-14 days). Egg-laying usually occurs 25-30 days after shed.

When ovulation occurs, the male’s job is done and the female will start to lay cold. She will spend more time in the cooler end of the cage. The female will usually stop feeding after the third week of gravidity and will not feed again until the eggs are hatched. A gravid snake should be handled as little as possible.

April-June: Egg-laying occurs.

Hatching: 52-60 days later. Be patient and allow them to hatch naturally; cutting eggs prematurely can cause health problems.

Incubation: If maternal, daytime 86-90F, nighttime 77F. If artificial, 86-90F in moist vermiculite. Maintain high humidity but never spray eggs directly.

Hatchlings: Allow young to emerge by themselves. During this period they absorb the yolk and adjust their respiratory systems.

Breeding Cycle Reference:
October 1st: Cool down.
November 1st: Start breeding.
February 16th: Warm-up.
April 1st: Breed till ovulation.
February-May: Ovulation.
16 days later: Pre-lay shed.
26-30 days later: Eggs laid.
52-60 days later: Eggs hatch.

I hope this information helps some first time breeders. Thank you for your time. Best of luck,

Living Art Reptiles™.

Source Information: Living Art Reptiles.

Photos: Joe Compel & Living Art Reptiles

Disclaimer: Any information on this site is for entertainment and educational purposes and is not a substitute for medical advice from a veterinarian.

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